The area of Patagonia in southernmost Argentina and Chile is far-flung and to many travellers just too difficult of access. However, the area represents an alternative to Argentina's Peninsula Valdez, is rich in cetacean-life and worthy of a visit. Some visitors may be lucky enough to sample local wildlife delights in conjunction with a trip to Antarctica, from Ushuaia or Punta Arenas.

The windswept and rugged coasts provide the opportunity to watch for dolphins, particularly Chilean (or black) dolphins. South-west Chile is of particular importance for this species, which has been subjected to direct hunting (particularly in the 1970's and 80's).

From Puerto Natales to Ushuaia, the keen whale-watcher can find some great locations to sit and spot animals. A visitor might try some of the following, most of which are grouped geographically and within Chile:

Punta Arenas

This Chilean town sits on the Straits of Magellan, that stretch of water separating Tierra del Fuego from the mainland. Peale's dolphins can be viewed within a short distance from the ferry terminal.

Perhaps surprisingly, local observers do not record many whales in the Straits. There are records of sei whales for south of Punta Arenas; and a dead-stranded spectacled porpoise in the last five years, from the same area, was the first intact specimen for all Chile.

Porvenir

This town lies on the north-west side of Tierra del Fuego, and is accessible by ferry from Punta Arenas in a little over two hours. The return trip is thus easily made in a single day. I have always seen small cetaceans in the harbour approaches (Bahia Chilota), although in recent times the small groups of Commerson's have been replaced by Peale's dolphins. The latter accompany both small and large vessels to and from port.

A walk north to the nearby lighthouse will give the observer a magnificent viewpoint over the Magellan Straits.

The ferry ride provides a chance to watch for other cetaceans as well as seals, although a variety of seabirds (including at least tens of albatrosses) is the more reliable attraction.

Ushuaia (southern Tierra del Fuego, Argentina)

The waters of the Beagle Channel adjacent to this small port are home to Peale's dolphins. Dusky dolphins are possible, and both Chilean dolphins and Burmeister's porpoises have been seen by ship-board naturalists. The black dolphins are rare here, whilst the little-known porpoise may prove through time to be a regular sight – they are difficult to observe unless sea conditions are calm.

Primera Angostura (Magellan Straits)

The area termed the 'first narrows' lies to the north-east of Punta Arenas. A sojourn on the coastline or a short ferry ride across the Straits provides a chance to watch for cetaceans. Commerson's are regularly found and Peale's dolphins ought to be encountered. Spectacled porpoise, a very difficult-to-see species, has been infrequently recorded in this region too. Southern right whales winter in the area to the east of the narrows (south and southeast of Punta Delgada).

Punta Harvey (Seno Skyring)

This site is off the gravel highway Y-50 and about an hour-and-a-half north of Punta Arenas. Set on low cliffs, the viewpoint adjacent to a giant sculpture is exposed and so can be very windy. Nevertheless, it is likely to be the best spot to see Chilean dolphins, because of their preference for areas of strong currents at fjord entrances.

The animals can come close to shore, seemingly best viewed before the tide race reaches its peak. The backdrop of snow-capped peaks is impressive and there are South American fur seals in these waters too.

'The channel' (connecting Seno Otway and Seno Skyring)

This stretch of water separates Isla Riesco from the mainland. The site is around six kilometres to the south of Punta Harvey, off the same road. A small automated lighthouse marks the right area in which to search for Commerson's dolphins. These animals are not viewed very close to shore and a telescope can be useful. Nevertheless, this attractive species is reliable here – many visitors to the southern cone and even the sub-Antarctic islands fail to see it elsewhere.

Even in season (November to February), there are very few people at these watch-points, so you can often enjoy the spectacle alone.

Puerto Natales

This attractive town, which sits near mountains at the meeting of the Gulf of Alte Montt and Ultima Esperanza Bay, is three hours north of Punta Arenas. Researchers report Chilean dolphin from the nearby waters. There are any number of watch-points you might use, since access to the coast is largely unrestricted.

Carlos III Island

Humpback whales draw eco-tour visitors to this area of the north-west Magellan Straits. Four day trips to a remote camp are fairly expensive and occur in the austral summer, when whales feed on shoaling sardine-type fish.

There is potential to see other small cetacean species in these frigid waters. Perhaps surprisingly, dwarf and Antarctic minke whales are not seen offshore. Their range ought to extend over these waters, but local experts maintain that they are absent.

There are other regions nearby that are worthy of a visit, but hard to reach. Speaking to scientists, they have seen Burmeister's porpoises in the area of the Bernardo O'Higgins national park, north-west from Puerto Natales. One option might be to take a multi-day cruise to the fjords from that town's port.

As in many areas of the world, conservation threats to small cetaceans in the austral cone are significant. Where dolphins were killed in huge and unsustainable numbers for use as crab bait previously, they are now protected; it is enforcement of these laws that is the issue. Commercial fishing, which has already decimated king crabs, may overlap with prey important to dolphins, but this matter is not fully understood.

Whales attract researchers and seem, from this investigative focus, to be better safeguarded. Their fish prey tends not to be sought by fishermen. However, coal extraction on coastal land produces impacts that are potentially adverse to all cetaceans, from pollutants entering the sea to shipping and new construction; and no species is immune to the change in climate caused by man.

Nathan Gricks is an ecologist with world-wide experience of marine mammal watching and issues affecting their conservation.